Here’s someone elses trip report that gives a pretty good description of the route: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=666909
I set out with Andrea, Ben, Alex, & Gerry; and all five of us squeezed snuggly into my Forester at 5am on April 26th. Unfortunately, it seemed unlikely that we would summit, as it rained heavily on us during the drive out there, and as we began the hike. When we arrived at the trailhead parking lot at 6:30am, there was a group of 9 BoeAlps already there gearing up as well. (In Seattle, the Mountaineers is the largest organized mountaineering club, but there are many smaller ones as well, one of which is BoeAlps, which is specifically for Boeing employees.) I wasn’t expecting anyone else to be doing the same mountain as us since April is an unpopular time for mountaineering, but I was really glad when I realized they’d be ahead of us because I knew a lot of the way would be on snow, and we’d get some free steps kicked for us.
The BoeAlps were ahead of us just enough that we went hours without seeing them after they left the parking lot. We started hiking at 7:05. Before the snow, the route started out briefly along an abandoned road, then turned uphill walking in a creek for a few feet, then following a very rough bootpath through the woods gaining 2000′ by going nearly straight up the ridge-side. The rain let up, leaving us with just a heavy fog. We hit continuous snow, and were happy to follow in the recent footsteps of the BoeAlps group. It takes a while, but eventually the slope ends with a ridgeline, still in trees, that you turn left and walk along. Eventually the gradually rising ridgeline is interrupted by a sudden increase in steepness with a cliffy rock face visible on the left side, at which point you go right and follow your current topo line, traversing the south slope amongst the trees. When there are no cliffs above you, you make a 90° left turn and ascend a very consistent slope until you break out of the trees at the edge of a snow bowl, with views of the big gully that runs to the notch between the north & south peaks. When we reached this point, the cloud ceiling cut off both the north & south peaks, but we could see the big gully across the bowl from us, and we spotted the BoeAlps group halfway up it. They must have been moving fast, because that was the first time we caught sight of them since the parking lot. We noticed that if we stepped out of their tracks, we’d quickly sink into the snow up to our waist, and it was a bit of a swimming battle to get something solid to stand on again. Even within their tracks, occasionally stepping down hard would cause us to posthole.
There was old avalanche debris in the gully as we ascended, but it was clearly old and had refrozen solidly into place. As we ascended it, the clouds began to break, giving us occasional patches of blue sky, some views far down the Highway 2 valley, and some teasing glimpses of other nearby mountains. We caught up with the BoeAlps group at the notch where the gully ended. Other route descriptions describe one pitch of very steep snow that must be climbed in order to go higher than the notch, and we had brought a 50-meter rope, three pickets, and one secondary ice axe so that I’d have two when leading the pitch. We ended up not using any of it. The BoeAlps leader had been concerned about snow stability on that pitch, so rather than go up it, he went sidewise to the left, setting his own fixed line to a tree over there. After their entire group had used the fixed line to get to the next easy section, I heard them say that they were going to leave it in place while they tagged the summit, and use it on the descent as well. I yelled to them, asking if they would mind if we clipped in and used their fixed line after them on the ascent. He said yes, which saved us even more time, since we didn’t have to set up our own fixed line, as we had originally planned. I thanked them, and told them we’d use our own rope to rappel back into the gully when it was time to descend so we wouldn’t delay them, but that later proved to be unnecessary too. Our groups combined as we worked up the final alpine slope to the summit.
The rocky summit partially stuck out of the snow, and had quite of bit of rime-ice plastered to it. We circled clockwise around it to find an easier side to scramble up, summiting at 1:00pm. With 14 people up there total, we perched on every inch of rock that was showing, because we knew the snowier parts were probably hiding dangerous cornices. We faced west and enjoyed some beautiful views through the cloud breaks, and everyone broke out some food that they had carried up and generously shared. I got some delicious Swedish Fish and a maple-creme cookie from the BoeAlps people in exchange for some chocolate bits. Index & Mt Persis were hazily visible on one side of our view, while Merchant and Gunn Peak came and went through the fog on the other side. At 1:20pm we started our descent. We were hiking along side the BoeAlps group, and got back to their fixed line at roughly the same time. They said we were welcome to use their fixed line again, even though we hadn’t wanted to slow them down, so we accepted their generous offer. It was almost unnecessary at that point because so many boots had made very solid, comfortable steps at the steep snow traverse. We happily glissaded the entire gully, even though it was a tad bumpy. We exited the snow bowl, and the BoeAlps group pulled ahead of us as we worked our way back down the ridgeline. Our group really slowed down once got low enough to be off snow entirely, and back to the muddy bootpath on the lower slope. It was a long day and we were tired. It was a relief to finally break out on to the abandoned road at the bottom. We hung out there for a little bit to regroup and wash our muddy boots/gaitors/pants in the small stream. By then, the difference in weather was amazing. Blue skies everywhere, and a stunning view of Baring’s summit through the thin tree branches above us. Once we were all there, we walked the tiny remaining distance back to the parking lot, finishing out hike at 5:45pm. It was a fantastic, full-value day!
If it hadn’t been for the BoeAlps, I’m sure it would have taken us much, much longer; probably requiring us to turn around before reaching the summit in order to get back at a reasonable hour. We intentionally went to the same bar & grill as them on the way home, and bought them a token pitch of beer as thanks.
Here are just my pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ct8i9j2ksnmvxsh/IYleHf6Amj
Pictures from everyone in the group our on facebook (need to add a link to that.)